Cycling Lisbon to Santiago: Camino Portugues--2007

This is a photo diary of our Camino Portuguese--Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela--by bicycle in September and October 2007.

We arrived in Lisbon--overnight from Minneapolis-- on Wednesday 12 September. The bicycles had been seriously damaged by the airline and Security. The second problem was that the room we had reserved many weeks earlier was not available, although the owner eventually found us a room at another pension in downtown Lisbon. After finding a bike shop for repairs, we did a quick tour of the city, finding it overrun by tourists. We also note it is a much more multicultural place than any of the cities we've visited in our previous Caminos across Spain.

Leaving Walla Walla

Thursday September 13 We spent our first full day in Lisbon as unabashed tourists. Other than just wandering about this beautiful and friendly city, the highlights for us were the massive Jeronimos Monastery and the Gulbenkian Museum. The Gulbenkian was endowned by a wealthy Armenian expat, grateful for the welcoming treatment he received from the Portuguese people as an exile during World War II. The most magical event of the day in the Plaza del Comercio where we ran into Eugenio and Paula, Italian Caministas whom we had met north of Seville on the first day our our Camino la Plata in 2006. The day ended with huge bowl of snails washed down with some good Portuguese beer.

The Lavra Funicular

With Eugenio & Paula

Communist Party Billboard

The Portuguese Communist Party is small but active throughout Portugal

A Group of Lisbon's Teen Goths

We met this delightful and friendly group of kids at the Gulbenkian. They were mightily offended that the Museum guards treated them like criminals.

Friday, September 14--Lisbon to Vila Franca--49 KilometersThis was a long hot day as we slogged our way through Lisbon's port and industrial zone. As we came into an upscale suburb, Yvonne's bike showed further problems from the flight over. Fortunately, there was a good bike shop in the massive American-style mall we ran across. The ride got longer and longer as we passed through town after town with no accommodations available. Even the Bomberos, who reportedly would allow pilgrims to stay in their facilities, let us down. Finally found a nice little hotel, the Flora, in Vila Franca.

Finally on the path outside of Lisbon

Monument to the Portuguese Bullfighter!

Saturday, September 15--Vila Franca to Santerem--50 Kilometers. After breakfast with Eugenio and Paula at the Flora, we hit the road. The way was generally flat with decent shoulders. We decided to stop at Cartaxo, but there were no rooms available, so we went on to Santarem. The road was fine until the last couple kilometers, which took us up a huge steep hill to the town. Stayed at the Hotel Victoria for 45 Euros. Had dinner with Joaquin and Isabel, two very friendly Portuguese, at the Restaurant Quinzena.

Some scenes along the way to Santerem

Tomatoes

Roadside Shrine

Sunday, September 16--Santarem to Galega--40 Kilometers. As soon as we started riding, we ran into this large group of bicyclists gathering for a ride to the next town to take note of the fact this is a national European "bike only" day. One of the organizers of the event rode with us and gave us a capsule history of modern Portugal as we rode along. Like every European we've ever met on our Caminos, he hated George Bush's war in Iraq, and argued half seriously that Europeans should be allowed to vote in US elections becuase US actions have such an impact on their lives as well. We just followed the cyclists out of town where they pointed us in the right direction to Galega. Unfortunately for our bank account, the only accommodation in Galega is a 4 star hotel. The town seems to fancy itself a new "horsey" kind of place that will attract big money, and therefore the fancy hotel, which was virtually empty. There was a fair going on, so we did see some standard fair booths and a few brave teenagers taunting young bulls in the ring.

Hotel Victoria, Santarem.

Part of the Bicycle Crowd in Santarem

Some Pics of Galega
Galega's 4-star hotel

A nice mansion in Galega

Three photos of Galega's beautiful church

Monday, September 17--Galega to Tomar--30 Kilometers

Tomar is a rundown city with a strong Templar history. We loved the Church of San Francisco, and the Jewish Synagogue, one of the oldest intact Synagogues in Europe. We could have taken a side trip to Fatima from Tomar, but decided to go there on our way back to Lisbon after going to Santiago. So far, the only pilgrims we have seen are Eugenio and Paula, and haven't seen them since Vila Franca. News Flash!!! About 5 minutes after writing this, we see them. They are amazing walkers. We spent the night at a Pensao for E27.50.

Some Scenes on the way to Tomar

A truckload of Cork

We loved this amazing tile work you see everywhere in Portugal, including at this simple rest stop that commemorates some ancient Portuguese victory.

Looking down the main street of the old city of Tomar and up at the Templar Castle which protected the city.

These next four pictures are of the Church of San Francisco.

And here is the wonderful Tomar Synagogue, almost lost down a simple side street in this ancient city.

"Che" is apparently quite popular among many Portuguese, because his image is fairly common.

Tuesday, September 18--Tomar to Alvaiazere--36 Kilometers This was a fairly hard day, with the first 16 kilometers uphill, expecially the last 6 km. Because of road construction, we had to go up the mountain. But a beautiful ride down the mountain through a Eucalyptus forest. We stayed at a nice Pensao and had a good dinner of pork, potatoes, wine, and rice. Incidentally, no one cooks potatoes like the Portuguese.

These next six pictures were taken on the way to Alvaiezere.

Wednesday, September 19--Alvaiazere to Ansiao--18 Kilometers. Up a long hill today, but two beautiful downhill rides. Had coffee at the top at Jorge's Cafe Pinhal. Jorge was born in Beira, Mozambique, but raised in Portugal after his family returned to the homeland following Portugal's decision to give up its African colonies. He was very concerned about what he saw as massive corruption and "mafia control" of his country. We have no idea if there is any truth to his claims.

Yvonne with Jorge at Cafe Pinhal

Six photos of Ansiao

Pensao Solar de Rainha in Ansiao

Thursday September 20--Ansiao to Coimbra--50 Kilometers. Started with a 6 km uphill ride, followed by some rollers and flat roads. Some short but difficult hills. Coming into Coimbra itself was a mess. There was a lot of construction and the traffic was terrible. We found a room at the Pensao Moderna in the old city.

Some images of the beautiful city of Coimbra

Friday September 21--Coimbra to Anadia--42 Kilometers.
Waiting for the tourist office to open, we got a late start from Coimbra. Even with new directions, we got lost many times. At best, the yellow arrows are intermittent. At one point a very nice man on a bike rode a kilometer or so with us to help us find our way through the maze of potential wrong turns. Getting lost so much added a dozen kilometers to the day's ride. Anadia turned out to be a very quiet place with only one--very expensive--hotel. The town did have a nice farmers' market and a beautiful new school of enology and viticulture.

Our helpful guide

Anadia's "Escola Viticultura E Enologia

Saturday September 22--Anadia to Olveira Azemeis--55 Kilometers. Having gotten lost so many times the day before, we decided to just take the highway--a somewhat risky decision. Traffic was terrible on narrow roads without shoulders to ride on. Saw a lot of interesting sights on the way, and had a nice visit with some Pilgrims who were walking the opposite direction to Fatima. Yvonne asked them where to get the safety vests like the ones they were wearing, and they immediately insisted we take two of theirs. This generous gift may well have kept us from getting run over on this day of busy highways. In Olveira itself we stayed in the most rickety Pensao we'd ever seen on our many caminos. Later, we found out the local tourist office directed pilgrims to the Bomberos where you can stay for free. Alas, our early negative experiences in this regard had kept us from even asking.

Here are the Fatima Pilgrims

And some of the scenes on the way to Olveira de Azameis

Sunday September 23--Olveira Azemeis to Porto--41 Kilometers. Very hilly most of the way. Yvonne took a bad fall, banging her leg. A man passing by came to her rescue, rounding up some ice to prevent swelling.

Our helper after the wreck

Coming down into the Porto waterfront.

A group of Porto's friendly teenagers.

Some photos of the beautiful city of porto

This is looking down the staircase leading to our room in the Oceano Pensao in Porto

Monday September 24--Porto to Vila do Conde--31 Kilometers. After a slow slog out of Porto this was an easy day as we rode toward the beach instead of going to Rates. Stayed at a beachfront Pensao and had a tasty dinner of bacalau in a small cafe where we met an interesting retired Air Iberia employee. Capping a number of interesting stories, he summarized: "Portugal is a small country with a big story!"

Fortified church in Vila do Condo

A former Monastery that is now a reform school.

A beachfront statue honoring the region's history of lace making.

Two photos of a many miles long aquaduct that was built to bring water to the monastery in Vila do Conde.

Tuesday September 25--Vila do Conde to Barcelos--35 Kilometers. The worst part of this ride was the last 10 kilometers on cobblestones. On the way, we went through Rates, mainly to see the 12th Century Romanesque Church

San Pedro de Rates, Bishop of Braga who is said to have been ordained by Santiago himself.

On the road to Barcelos

Entering Barcelos

The Galo de Barcelos--national symbol of Portugal

Some scenes in Barcelos

Wednesday September 26--Barcelos to Ponte de Lima--35 Kilometers. Two steep hills on the way to Ponte de Lima. Still, an easy ride mostly through farms and
vinyards.

Ponte de Lima

A former prison in Ponte de Lima that is now an art museum.

Thursday September 27--Ponte de Lima to Rubaes--23 Kilometers. Leaving Ponte de Lima you go up a massive granite mountain, passing numerous quarries and granite workshops. At the top of the mountain, we ran into a group of army recruits who were on fire control duty. Even as we were talking they received an emergency call to go off to fight fire. Here we stayed in our first Portuguese Albergue--and had the place to ourselves.

Friday September 28--Rubiaes to Tui, Spain--23 Kilometers. A very easy day, mostly downhill. We spent much of the afternoon at the massive Fortaleza in Valenca, Portugal, built to protect against Spanish invasion across the Minho River. Crossing the river into Spain, we visited the magnificent Tui Cathedral with its rare cloister--the only Cathedral Cloister still extant in Spain. The Albergue was attached to the Cathedral. Here we met again a very nice group of German Pilgrims we had first met in Barcelos. A Dutch couple whom we had also met in Barcelos also appeared in Tui, but they headed for a hotel rather than the Albergue. We were glad to see the Germans because we didn't enjoy being the only pilgrims in the large new Albergue the night before in Rubiaes.

Crossing the Bridge into Spain

A view of Tui from the Bridge over the Minho, looking at the Cathedral at the top of the hill

The Tui Cathedral and its Cloister

Santiago Matamoros!

Saturday September 29--Tui to Redondela--34 Kilometers. One long hill--up, then back down. You pass a massive mountain that is cut away for granite blocks. After Porrino the road narrows with a lot of traffic. The Albergue in Redondela is very nice and we enjoyed sharing a meal with a young German, and older Canadian, and a young Frenchman who was making and selling necklaces made from stones picked up along the Camino to support a homeless man in his care who was making the Camino. We arrived in Redondela in time to see the time trial of a junior bike race

Redondela's lovely Albergue

Sunday September 30--Redondela to Pontevedra--20 Kilometers--but another 10 kilometers getting lost while touring the city. First a long climb out of Redondela. At Arcade we went off the highway and promptly got lost, but an old man came out of his yard to help us get reoriented. The Albergue in Pontevedra is very nice. Here we run into the Dutch pilgrims Jules and Renee and the four Germans we see now and then. One of the four lives in Porto. He loves the Portuguese, saying that even in hard times, of which they have had many, they maintain a soft heart.

Monday October 1--Pontevedra to Padron--45 Kilometers The ride was mostly highway, with some hills. The Padron Albergue is very nice and roomy. There is a beautiful church above the Albergue. At the Church of Santiago, the Pedron, believed to be the stone used to moor the boat that brought Santiago's body back to Spain. Whether true or not, the Stone has been at the center of Christian veneration in this lovely city for centuries.

Tuesday October 2--Padron to Santiago de Compostela--30 Kilometers.
We did this day all by backroads, through Louo and Romallosa on into Santiago. A beautiful sunny day, most of the ride through the woods. Of course, the last few kilometers into the city were the usual chaotic mess. Total for the trip to Santiago was 720 kilometers on our bike computers. We stayed in the same little pension we'd stayed the two previous years.

Wednesday 3 October--Free day in Santiago. Spent the day poking around the city.
Ran into the three young German boys we'd met along the way and the 4 German men whose company we enjoyed so much.

Thursday 4 October--Santiago to Negreira--24 KilometersStarted this morning with the Pilgrims breakfast in the basement kitchen of the Parador and took these picture of the Parador's garden. The hospitalera at the Albergue in Negreira was very tough on cyclists and we spent a very cold night in a tent on the cold ground.

This next set of photos was taken on the way to Negreira, including the pic of the two lovely Estrella Galicia ladies whose company we enjoyed as much as usual.

Friday 5 October--Negreira to Olveiroa--42 kilometers.A nice day's ride through the Galician hills and valleys. The Albergue in Olveiroa is very nice as is the helpful Hospitalera. Met a very nice Danish lady, Helle, whose Spanish language skills were helpful. The Albergue was full.

We met these follow cyclists in Negreira--he from Brazil, she from Madrid.

Saturday October 6--Olveiroa to Muxia--32 Kilometers. Nice ride on quiet roads. Very steep starting out. Helle went with us as far as the turnoff to Cee and Fisterra. The folks at Muxia, who insist that Fisterra may be the end of the world, Muxia is the end of the Camino, and in accordance with that, they award all pilgrims a nice certificate.

After a night in Muxia, we took the bus back to Santiago. Having missed it on the way north, we decided to take the train to Fatima on the way back to Lisbon. First, we had to take the train to Vigo. Leaving Santiago we met this group of Portuguese cylists who were taking the train back to Portugal.

Here are a some pictures of Vigo taken while we were waiting our train connection to Fatima.

As we boarded the train in Vigo, a young couple boarded with their bikes. The bike storage area was very small, but the four bikes fit easily. Then came the large group of mountain bike riders who just piled their muddy bikes atop the four. This greatly upset the young couple. Their protests went nowhere, so she marched off and returned with two policemen who made the mountain bikers unpile the whole mess and ensure they did not damage the couple's bikes. This, of course, enraged them, so they spent the whole trip harassing and mocking the couple. It was all on that edge between fierce anger and mocking teasing. We had to change trains again when we got to Portugal and a little later on we had to disembark and take a bus around a bridge that was out. We couldn't have made it without the help of the Portuguese bikers who knew what was coming and trucked our bikes to the next train. Then it was on to Fatima, scheduled to arrive at 4AM. Well, the station at Fatima is not in Fatima, but 25 kilometers away. It was cold and windy, so we got into our sleeping bags and tried to get some sleep. After a while, a man brought his daughter to the station. This was when we found out how far in the boondocks we were. As we were talking, a barefoot man wandered in out of the woods, holding his hand over his mouth and nose. When he spoke, we saw why--he'd obviously been beaten up, as his face was all bloody. It was at this point that Pedro decided he could help us get to Fatima. Somehow we squezzed into his tiny car. Here's Pedro in Fatima and a couple shots of the place.

Our first impression of Fatima was fairly negative--all those ugly hotels and tacky religious stores. But as we got involved in going through the place, seeing people moving around the shrine on their knees, witnessing the lighting of candles and people in tears praying, we came to see that this is indeed a holy place.